Most Ranger talks are informative. This one was, but it was, as my youngest would say, not information-dense. So we ditched it and hoped we wouldn’t run across the group on the way out.
We escaped into a forest so green, lush and dark that we needed a flashlight.
The darkness broke up at Storm Point, overlooking the serene Yellowstone Lake.
The next jam was the most common wildlife traffic snarl in Yellowstone: bison. Bison are huge and ubiquitous. Husband Brad calls them rattalos because they are everywhere! A calf approached our car very directly. While I was composing a shot, I found out that bison are not as doped up as they look. A huge, male bull shrieked a bellow at the calf and shook its black tongue at me. Thought I was going to need bear spray.
Eleven hours later, we still had seen no bears other than that smudge in the field. No more elk, no moose, big horn sheep, mule deer or antelope. Other than bison, we saw chipmunks, squirrels, Canadian Geese and a vole, which is like a mole, only Northwestern. After eleven hours, we were beat. Honestly, as we headed back to Old Faithful Inn, it would have taken a big horn sheep riding a bear to get us to stop.
Old Faithful Inn is authentic National Parks architecture: a massive stone and log lodge like El Tovar (Grand Canyon), Crater Lake Lodge and Many Glacier Lodge (Glacier National Park). Built with lodge-pole pines as long as corridors, these structures center around immense, multi-story lobbies whose rock fireplaces draw weary visitors in the evening. Despite the parks size, Yellowstone has only one grand lodge, but it is easily the nations most impressive.
Beams with arms like Popeye support the inns six-story lobby. Built in 1903-1904 without Starbucks or power equipment, Robert Reimers design included electric lights and steam heat. Light cascades into the interior from three stories of dormers and casement windows so high they need ladders. One can see the catwalks of an even higher balcony The Crows Nest but cant go up. Orchestras once played from the Crows Nest until an 1959 earthquake made that level unstable.
Lounging in the lobby, I wonder what flipped-out worker volunteered to pave the ceiling 92 feet above me with logs. What an insane job. The Old Faithful Inn, what an insanely beautiful, mellow place to vacation.
Until you see a real one.
And the blue flash of it flying away.
Sometimes, Hell truly is other people, isn’t it? A supposed “must-see side trip” of Uncle Tom’s Trail at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River leads to a claustrophobic dead-end Continue reading Uncle Tom’s Trail and Artist’s Point: Congested Beyond Hope
No. Okay, wait, that was hasty.
- A wildlife tour in Yellowstone will cost $400 for a family of four
- The tour leaves at unGodly-o’clock and returns 8 hours later
- You will have a 50/50 chance of being on the wildlife side of the bus
- The bus has other people
My husband, Brad, was lost hunting at fourteen years old. Really lost. Feeling the heebee jeebees from behind, he turned to find a wolf staring at him on the trail — five feet away.
“And then what?”
“I raised my gun.”
“And then what?”
“It walked off.”
That was it.
If you want to see a wolf in Yellowstone, don’t get lost hunting. Stop at the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone.
The animals at the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center are unable to live in the wild, so are rescue wolves, bears, eagles, etc. Without the stress of hunting and protecting a territory, these animals can be viewed at their most relaxed states.
And you will also be in your most relaxed state. Believe me, when you see a wolf or grizzly in person, you won’t have composure to admire it’s coat and wonder what’s on it’s mind.
The Discovery Center does an excellent job of education, offering talks throughout the day, like the “Bear Spray Demo” we heard.
The naturalist demonstrated bear spray, shooting blanks from her holstered demo can so we could see how far the spray travels (not far enough for me). She explained that we should be patient if a bear charged us because, after all, it could just be a false charge. She also advised, “Do not run. A bear is a predator. If you run, a bear has to chase you.”
If you run, a bear has to chase you.
Finally, she showed how to windmill one’s arms, slowly backing away from a bear. She mentioned that someone she knew survived a bear encounter by doing this for seven hours until the bear turned and walked off. Got all that?
Meanwhile, the bears entertained us by playing in the habitat behind the speaker, wrestling, splashing and ignoring ravens who stand around criticizing them.
Would you pay $400 a night for a tent? I did and I feel foolish.
Guess it’s not the fashion to be negative, but I feel duped by a false-positive review of Yellowstone Under Canvas. Sometimes, it’s just not helpful to endorse whatever you review. Plus, based on this review, I gave up a night at the fabulous Old Faithful Inn to try this place. I reserved the Deluxe Tent with a bathroom and companion tipi (the Under Canvas term for teepee). My only option also included breakfast, so $401.12 later, I had booked one night in a tent. Continue reading Yellowstone Under Canvas: $400 Tent Overpriced by $267.12