HOTEL DES BALANCES, LUCERNE

Julie said it was a “three-person room.”  It had two twin beds pushed together with the European style comforter – no sheet, just two twin comforters. Gage’s bed was a twin, too, pushed against the giant gilt-framed wall mirror. Here are a couple of pictures (sorry for the mess – other than the first pic of my happy wife, I didn’t remember to take pics until leaving).

We had some trouble that first night with the temperature. The thermostat went down to 16.5 Celsius (about 65 Fahrenheit), but I don’t think we got below about 72f. The fan showed multiple speed settings on the thermostat, but really never changed no matter how high I set the fan or how low the temp. I mentioned it to the receptionist the next morning. In the meantime, we had to open the window to get it cool enough to sleep.  The cool breeze lulled us to sleep after the trip.

Turns out the receptionist was wrong about the carnival bands starting at 6am. They started at 5am. The bands are marching bands competing for the loudness trophy.  Five bass drums, maybe five snare drums, a bunch of tubas, trombones, and trumpets all playing at top volume, seemingly right below our second-floor window. Surprisingly, when I looked, they were across the river. Turns out sound carries very well across a still river at night. I closed the windows. Still loud. I listened to the boom, boom, boom of the drums and oom pah pa of the horns for a couple of hours, but miraculously fell back to sleep for a couple of hours. Julie and Gage had similar stories when we all finally got up around 10am.

First morning in Lucerne. For those of you coffee maker nuts, the coffee/espresso maker was [delizio], which worked great and was identical to but slightly less loud than Nespresso.

Out of our second-floor windows was a beautiful blue sky, a stunning view of the softly flowing Reuss River and Mt. Pilatus, a must-see day trip, above the rooftops. Here are a couple of pics out our windows –

The view was almost enough, but not quite enough to mask the bang, bang, bang, oom pah pa, pa pa, pomp, bang, bang, bang of the drums and horns….  Yikes. It was Monday morning before Fat Tuesday, we realized. We decided to head to the Alps.

Springfield, MO

Springfield, MO, is not going to work for us. It’s too small, we don’t know anyone here, and it looks to be in transition, though it’s unclear which direction that transition is headed.

Retirement Rating: ★☆☆☆☆

The downtown area is oddly heavy on galleries but not restaurants. We tried the Vandervort Hotel and found the service spotty with visible bickering. I don’t think we’ve ever been offered a room in the basement without windows anywhere else.

Vandervort Hotel, Springfield, MO

★★★☆☆

★★★★☆ for Springfield, MO

We stayed at the Vandervort Hotel, “steps from the city’s most captivating attractions.” We walked the blocks around the Vort with our Australian Shepherd, Rho, on the lookout for captivating but returned to the hotel disappointed.

The single valet made drop-off slow, but he was a nice guy. He checked up on us later in the restaurant. Great service there.

The place is not otherwise welcoming. We arrived at 4 p.m., check-in time, and were offered rooms in the basement.

They don’t have windows.” the receptionist notes.

Isn’t this a fire hazard?

“Or you can wait for other rooms to be cleaned.”

So why aren’t two windowed rooms clean at 4 p.m ? Any time I’m in bed at 10 a.m., knocking and “housekeeping ♫” wake e. I guess the rooms are spotless.

The Vantage Bar

But we could wait for a room with windows in the rooftop terrace bar, Vantage, so we headed up there.

We sat down in seats in the sha e. A sign said Reserved 5 pm to close, but we didn’t plan on staying until . After a 10-minute wait, a waitress arrived and, rather than asking us for an order, told us the seats were reserv d. We left because our rooms were ready, and it wasn’t worth the argume t. We got our keys back at check- n. Strangely, the receptionist scoffed at Valet for suggesting she take our bags to the ro m. The first receptionist brought our bags up.

Rooms

Dimmed lighting in hallways decorated with black-and-white images of farm implements led to our decently sized two roo s. The decor is on the bleak side of industrial, and an empty open shelf unit under the TV seemed an odd choi e. Shoe storage?

The Order Restaurant

We ate at The Order, the restaurant downstairs, starting with an Aperol Sprintz and a be r. Cole ordered a Wassabi consisting of tequila, Baijiu (a clear Chinese liqueur made from sorghum), lime, cilantro, and furikake.

“Tastes like a wasabi Kit Kat,” he announc d. Sweet at first, then bitter.

Brad’s Patchwork Pork pork loin was overdone, so he had to eat it with the pork bel y. Cole and I agreed that we don’t want to know which part of an animal we are eating, especially if it is a cheek, tongue, or, in this case, a bel y. Cole’s striped bass was heavy on peas and pea sau e. My 14- z. dry-aged strip and the waiter were both excellent.

Vandervort Hotel Exit

Leaving on Sunday morning, there was, again, a single valet, a line, and a pissed-off middle-aged couple impatient to get their c r. The guy was literally so mad he could spit and d d. His wife sat down on the hot sidewalk in her white ski t. They need more valets and SOME bellhops.

Gailey’s Breakfast

★★★★★

The line outside said Gailey’s Breakfast was worth the 45-minute wait. With fast, unpretentious service, huge omelets, and killer biscuits, I would stop here the next time I drive by Springfield, MO. Springfield needs more comfortable places like this.

Introducing nape and cuff Jewelry

It is a slow year for travel. But not to be outdone, I created a collection of jewelry based on my favorite beautiful places: National Park lakes, pools, waterfalls, and trails. I started with particular places I missed seeing the most. Those spots inspired the leather and gemstone bracelets and necklaces in this collection for men and women. I invite you to check out:

nape and cuff jewelry

I hope we will all be traveling again soon!

Ditching a Ranger Talk on Storm Point Trail

Most Ranger talks are informative. This one was, but it was, as my youngest would say, not information-dense. So we ditched it and hoped we wouldn’t run across the group on the way out.

We escaped into a forest so green, lush and dark that we needed a flashlight.

Storm Point Trail Bracelet inspired by this trail.

Storm Lake Trail Bracelet @ NapeandCuff.com

The darkness broke up at Storm Point, overlooking the serene Yellowstone Lake. We spent some time taking pics of each other’s crazy wind-blown hair, then headed back into the verdant woods.

I feel a little guilt ditching the Ranger Talk. Park Rangers are among my favorite people. But sometimes you just want to take in the view. That moss…wow.



How About Bison Repellent?

The next jam was the most common wildlife traffic snarl in Yellowstone: bison.  Bison are huge and ubiquitous.  Husband Brad calls them rattalos because they are everywhere!  A calf approached our car very directly.  While I was composing a shot, I found out that bison are not as doped up as they look.  A huge, male bull shrieked a bellow at the calf and shook its black tongue at me.  Thought I was going to need bear spray.

Bison shrieking so close its eyeball fills my viewfinder.
Bison shrieking so close its eyeball fills my viewfinder.

Eleven hours later, we still had seen no bears other than that smudge in the field.  No more elk, no moose, big horn sheep, mule deer or antelope.  Other than bison, we saw chipmunks, squirrels, Canadian Geese and a vole, which is like a mole, only Northwestern.   After eleven hours, we were beat.  Honestly, as we headed back to Old Faithful Inn, it would have taken a big horn sheep riding a bear to get us to stop.

Arms Like Popeye support Old Faithful Inn

I Hate to Leave this Beautiful Place – Howard Norman

Old Faithful Inn is authentic National Parks architecture: a massive stone and log lodge like El Tovar (Grand Canyon), Crater Lake Lodge and Many Glacier Lodge (Glacier National Park). Built with lodge-pole pines as long as corridors, these structures center around immense, multi-story lobbies whose rock fireplaces draw weary visitors in the evening. Despite the parks size, Yellowstone has only one grand lodge, but it is easily the nations most impressive.

Beams with arms like Popeye support the inns six-story lobby. Built in 1903-1904 without Starbucks or power equipment, Robert Reimers design included electric lights and steam heat. Light cascades into the interior from three stories of dormers and casement windows so high they need ladders. One can see the catwalks of an even higher balcony The Crows Nest but cant go up. Orchestras once played from the Crows Nest until an 1959 earthquake made that level unstable.

Arms Like Popeye Bracelet inspired by Yellowstone Lodge @ NapeandCuff.com

We played a lot of cards on these balconies, one night listening to a cellist. She ended the evening with Beethoven’s “Moonlight Sonat” on a grand piano that looked small in this massive structure.

Lounging in the lobby, I wonder what flipped-out worker volunteered to pave the ceiling 92 feet above me with logs. What an insane job. The Old Faithful Inn, what an insanely beautiful, mellow place to vacation.

What travelling with my family has taught me.